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When the ocean floor has a gradual slope, the wave will steepen until the crest becomes unstable, resulting in turbulent whitewater spilling down the face of the wave. This continues as the wave approaches the shore, and the wave's energy is slowly dissipated in the whitewater. Because of this, spilling waves break for a longer time than other waves, and create a relatively gentle wave. Onshore wind conditions make spillers more likely.
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Fun Facts : Wave breaking generally occurs where the amplitude reaches the point that the crest of the wave actually overturns—though the types of breaking water surface waves are discussed in more detail below.
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Last updated on Apr 10, 2017
Minor bug fixes and improvements. Install or update to the newest version to check it out!
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Surf Wallpaper
1.0 by ImperialApps
Apr 10, 2017