उत्साह, पानी पर लहरों - सतह के पानी की oscillatory गति

The excitement, the waves on the water - oscillatory motion of surface water weight in water (seas, oceans, lakes, rivers) to form water billows (waves) caused by wind, atmospheric pressure change, earthquakes, vessel traffic, a sharp change in the profile of the bottom and so on. A common feature of water waves is the presence of dispersion, which significantly affects the development of wave processes on the surface. This is due to a phenomenon dispersion distinguish waves in deep water (wavelength less than the depth of the reservoir) and waves in shallow water, to the latter phenomenon is not observed and the dispersion of the phase velocity determined by the depth of the reservoir. [1]

In dismissing points on the surface of the liquid from the equilibrium take effect two forces that are trying to bring them back to equilibrium - a force of surface tension and gravity. Depending on the wavelength of one of these forces can be prevailing. In this connection distinguish superficial capillary and gravitational waves.